Sand And Rocks

Before putting anything in the aquarium, make sure that the glass is quite clean. You will not have the opportunity again for a long, long time. If you have an old tank, scrape off all lime deposits from the glass. Scrub inside with ordinary table salt and a very little water. Rinse well. If this does not remove all deposits, use steel wool or a razor blade scraper. Scratches inside the glass, under water, will not show when the aquarium is filled.

Now place it in the exact position it is to occupy. See that the tank stands flat, without rocking, and level, so that the water-line will be parallel with the top all round. A f-inch plywood board is a good support for the aquarium, or a 2-inch thick piece of redwood, and any necessary shimming to level will not warp the aquariura.

There are many popular ceramic items that can be added to the layout of your aquarium. But, as ideas of beauty vary, and as a guide to the beginner, the aquarium which presents as "natural" a setting as possible is one that appeals to most people. After you have your aquarium in operation and you find that you desire to add ceramic forms to it this can easily be done.

Throughout the United States and Canada, dealers carry packaged sand for aquariums. This is the recommended sand, but if you are in a position where no dealer is available, we suggest you use river sand or one of the coarse heavy sands used by builders. Silver sand and other very fine kinds are of no use because they rise too easily in the water. Because much of the sand throughout the United States is lime bearing, a simple test should be made to see that your sand is free of all lime.

Heavy sand ballast of several kinds, having different colors, can sometimes be obtained from any builder's yard. It must be put through a wire sieve to remove all stones, and then washed thoroughly to remove all dust, dirt and finer sand. The washing can be done by placing it in a bucket and under a tap in the sink or a hose in the garden. Stir thoroughly until the water overflowing from the bucket runs clear. A test can be made by putting some of the sand in a jar and pouring water on it. If the water is not clouded, the sand is ready.

Now the sand, still wet, is spread carefully over the whole base of the tank. If you are using the biological filtration method of keeping your aquarium clean, hold the filter panel firmly in place with one hand. Then take handfuls of sand and throw lightly on filter and around edges to cover filter. (For more information, see page 113.) Add more wet sand to whatever depth you may wish. One to two inches is good. Generally, it is sloped to be deeper at the back.

At this point the rocks can be added. If more than one level is needed, two or three fairly large pieces of rock can be placed in a row, or a semicircle, and the place enclosed by them filled with sand. If just one level is planned, smaller pieces can be placed at desired spots as though carried there by river action. Do not overdo the rockwork. We have seen tanks that look more like a stonemason's yard, or a cemetery, than an underwater scene. Remember that rocks displace water, and that of the two, water is the more valuable to the fishes and plants.

The best kinds of rock to use are the sandstones, of which there are many kinds, in various shades of brown, yellow, green, and gray. Granites may also be used, and some varieties of quartz, which give a very fanciful effect, but are inclined to present sharp edges on which fish may injure themselves. When possible, the stone selected should already be water-worn, as this looks more natural and is not so likely to be injurious as that newly broken. Limestone is not safe to use as some kinds allow the water to dissolve the lime and so harden the water. Marble, alabaster, spar, and gypsum are the worst offenders and should never be used. Colorful rocks should be tested before using, as some of them contain chemicals that are poisonous to fish; for example, copper-bearing rocks. Slate, coal or coke (first well washed) can be used with effect at times.

If sedimentary rocks such as sandstones are used, they will be formed in layers, or strata, and it is important that these should run in the same direction if the effect of a natural rock formation is to be obtained. Although in nature the strata are sometimes vertical, due to volcanic disturbance, this rarely looks right in an aquarium, and the pieces should not therefore be stood on end; they will give that tombstone effect. It is better to place them horizontally, or at a slight tilt. Sometimes a nice effect can be obtained by placing two pieces well apart, and laying a larger piece across, forming an arch through which fishes may swim.

Although the average tank is 12 inches from back to front, it will look only about 6 inches when seen through the water, due to refraction. This can be counteracted to some extent by the placing of stones to help the perspective, and so give an illusion of distance. For instance, two large stones placed near the front of the tank, far apart, can be followed by two smaller ones closer together, and perhaps behind these may be still smaller stones. Some useful layouts for rocks are shown in combination with those for the plants in Chapter Five.

When all is ready, we can turn our attention to filling the tank with water.

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