Plants And Planting

Most people like green growing plants, and you will find this very human desire expressed in aquariums. Almost every successful and beautiful aquarium has growing plants in it. Contrary to popular belief, it is not necessary to pack your aquarium with dozens of plants. Plant for decorative value, use as few or as many as you desire to make a tasteful arrangement.

As ideas on artistic layouts vary, we show only a few of the many ways plants and rocks can be placed so the beginner has a guide. As you progress your own ideas will dictate your layout.

Plants like Amazon Swords grow best with a sub-sand filter when the roots are confined. Use small, shallow, cup-like planters, either under the sand or on top of it. These will prevent the roots from spreading and clogging the slots in your filter and also prevent the crown of the plant from being pulled under. If this happens your plants will die. (See page 116 on how to grow Amazon Swords.)

Aquatic plants fall roughly into three groups. First those bushy ones, which send up branched stems bearing many leaves; these are usually propagated by cuttings, and these are what you are most likely to be offered at the dealers.

Secondly, there are plants which send up a number of long leaves from the same place, or "crown", just above the root. These usually spread by "runners" under the sand, which send up new plants near the old one; the young plants are separated off, and so these will have roots to them when you buy them.

The third kind does not root in the sand at all, but floats at  the  surface.

It is useful to know something about the different kinds of plants in these categories before you buy them, as they have different uses and requirements. Before describing them, however, I would warn you against having too many kinds. The conditions in the aquarium are bound to suit some kinds more than others, and these will make rapid progress, eventually crowding out the rest. In a 24-inch tank therefore it is really not practicable to introduce more than three species.

The following list of the plants which are usually obtainable and suitable for aquaria is in alphabetical order. It is intended chiefly to guide you in your choice at the dealers, and also for future reference, so it is not essential to read it all through now; if you wish, you can skip it for the moment and pass on to the planting instructions which follow it.

Many of the plants have no English names, and so they are all listed under their scientific or "Latin" names, by which most dealers know them.

Anubias lanceolata. Leathery pointed dark green leaves rising from a crown; somewhat resembling a miniature aspidistra. Slow-growing. Gomes from West Africa, and makes an interesting center-piece for the tropical tank. Not often available, and usually rather expensive (Fig. i, A) .

Aponogeton undulatum. Beautiful rich green leaves with wavy edges, rising rather stiffly from a crown. Needs good light. Found in the Indian region, and useful for tropical tanks only, mainly as a center-piece (Fig. I, B) .

Azolla caroliniana. Floating. Minute green leaves which spread in masses over the surface, and may be difficult to keep in check. Under a good light it turns red. Flourishes in both tropical or cold aquaria (Fig. 3, A).

Bacopa monieri. Branched, propagated by cuttings. Has small (half-inch) broad, almost circular leaves set closely against the thick fleshy stems. In the closely related B. caroliniana the leaves are longer in proportion. They grow in both cold and tropical tanks, preferring the latter {see Plate 1).

Cabomba carolinensis. Branched, propagated by cuttings. One of the finest of the bushy plants, having finely-divided fan-like leaves set in pairs on the stems at short intervals; the color is deep rich green. This luxuriant plant is ornamental. Related species which may be available are C. viridifolia, lighter green in color, C. aquatica, bronze-green, and C. rosaefolia, coppery-red. They grow in cold as well as tropical tanks; they are not recommended to be kept with Goldfish, however, as these fish eat them. They need a strong light, or they grow long and straggly, with few leaves (see Plate 2 and Fig. 2, A).

Callitriche verna (Starwort). A plant that is attractive in the cold-water aquarium. Clusters of pale green foliage are found below water, and in summer rosettes of floating leaves may be found on the surface. It stops growing or dies down in winter, but the related C. autumnalisi which does not have surface leaves, flourishes throughout the year (Fig. 2, B).

Ceratophyllum demersum (Hornwort). Branched, propagated by cuttings. It is very dark green, with finely divided leaves set in close whorls, which are particularly dense towards the tips of the stems. The whole plant is very brittle; it does not easily take root, but does well as a floating plant. Needs.a strong light (Fig. 2, c).

FIG. 1
A) Anubias lanceolata; B) Aponogeton undulatum; c) Cryptocoryne
wightii;   D)   Cryptocoryne   griffithii;   E)   Cryptocoryne   beckettii;
F) Eleocharis acicularis

Ceratopteris thalictroides (Water Sprite). Floating or rooted. This beautiful, bright green plant is a real fern, which appears to be primarily a floating plant. It can, however, be rooted into the sand, when the leaves grow delicately divided. Young plants develop in the edges of the leaves, and float to the surface. If not forced to root, they grow into floating ferns with broad, scarcely-divided leaves, so different that they have been given a name (C. deltoides) as though a different species. There is another species, however, which has broader leaves even when under water—C. pteroides. These are only for the tropical aquarium; they are very ornamental and interesting (see Plate 3).

Cryptocoryne cordata. Pointed, rather leathery leaves, bronze-green above, coppery below, rising on slender stalks from a crown; like a miniature aspidistra. C. ciliata is similar, but the leaves are rather broader and more wavy, and bright green in color; C. wightii (willisii) has narrower, rich green, very wavy or crinkled leaves. C. griffithii has large broad leaves, sometimes almost round, which are dark green and have a waxy gloss above, and are set on proportionately longer stems. C. beckettii is a small species, the leaves bright green, very pointed, and not wavy at all. These five species are the most commonly used of the Cryptocoryne, and can be had from most dealers. They are favorite decorative plants. Coming from the Indo-Malayan region, they are mostly swamp-plants, but live for a very long time completely submerged, and do not need a strong light. They spread into dense clumps, and it is advisable to divide up the roots (corms) after a while, to give the young ones more space to grow {see Plate 3 and Fig. 1). Echinodorus intermedius (Amazon Sword-plant).1 Long, light green leaves, on comparatively short stems rising from a crown. A magnificent plant, growing to a large size under the right conditions. Not more than one will be needed in any ordinary aquarium. Good, but not excessive light is needed, and temperatures above 65°F. It sends runners from the crown which grow into young plants; these should be removed when well established, to be used for other tanks, or exchanged with other aquarists. Other species becoming available are E. rangeri, with much broader leaves, E. martii in which also the leaves are very broad but are wavy also and very decorative. E. tenellus is a pigmy species, known as the "Chain Sword-plant", usually only about three inches high, and therefore useful for planting in the front part of the tank; it does not need a strong light. All these are from tropical America {see Plate 4).

A — A modern treatment with a wrought-iron stand and driftwood plywood shadow frame. Back of aquarium is covered by bamboo matting

1 See page 117 for "How to Grow Amazon Sword Plants".

B — Early American stand in maple with matching shadow frame. Bamboo background

Photo by William Afilligan, Los Angeles
C — Standard aquarium used as a room divider in small apartment

Photo by William Milligan, Los Angeles
D — i. A self-contained wall aquarium with a combed plywood shadow frame. Not built-in. Available commercially

Photo by Mar$t Rnssy$
D.— 2. A large built-in aquarium. Back opens into closet

A) Cabomba aquaiica; B) Callitriche verna; c) Ceratophyllum demersum; D) Egeria densa; E) Elodea canadensis; F) Fontinalis antipyretica; G) Heter-anthera zosteraefolia; H) Hottonia palustris; 3) Lagarosiphon major; K) Urn-nophila sessiliflora; L) Marsilea quadrifoliata; M) Nitella gradlis; N) Ranunculus aguatilis; p) Utricirtaria minor, with bladder enlarged above
 
Egeria densa (often called Elodea densa). Branching, propagated by cuttings. Dark green foliage in dense whorls on the long stems; under a good light it will produce small white three-petalled flowers at the surface (Fig. 2, D).

Eleocharis acicularis (Hair Grass). Very slender, needle-like leaves rising in a bunch from a rooted crown, to a height of about six inches. A European plant which does not like high temperatures but also cannot stand much cold; 6o°F. is a good average. Not an easy plant to grow, but

attractive in some kinds of tank layout (Fig. i, F) .

FIG. 3
A) Azolla caroliniana; B) Riccia fluitans; c) Salvinia braziliensis ; D)  Hydrocharis morsus-ranae; E) Lemna trisulca; F) Limnobium
spongia

Elodea canadensis (Canadian Pond-weed, or Anacharis). A North American plant which is sometimes a pest. Propagated by cuttings, and grows rapidly in a good light; in a poor light it will be straggly and pale in color. E. callitrichoides is a related species. Both have small, light green pointed leaves closely set on the stems (Fig. 2, E).

Fontinalis antipyretica (Willow-moss). Very small dark green leaves densely-packed on the stems which form a tangled mass, moss-like in appearance. A native plant useful in the cold-water aquaria; it collects a good deal of sediment. Does not require a strong light. F. gracilis is a much more delicate species, paler green in color, which can be grown in the tropical aquaria. Both these are very useful when breeding fishes, providing shelter for eggs and young. (Fig. 2, F).

Heteranthera zosteraefolia. A delicate-looking plant. The slender stems bear rather long, transparent pale green leaves set alternately on opposite sides. Propagated by cuttings. Needs moderate temperatures and a strong light (Fig. 2, G).

Hottonia palustris (Water violet). A species which makes a very attractive addition to the cold-water tank. Can be grown from cuttings, but rooted stems are best. Has delicate fern-like leaves on the submerged stems (Fig. 2, H).

Hydrocharis morsus-ranae (Frog-bit). Floating. Forms a rosette of heart-shaped leaves on the surface, and sends up pretty white flowers in a good light. A species for the cold-water tank only (Fig. 3, D). A Frog-bit suitable for the tropical tank is Limnobium spongia, from Brazil (Fig. 3, F).
Hygrophila polysperma. Branching, propagated by cuttings. Rather long oval leaves, bright green, in opposite pairs on the stems. Originating in the Indian region, this is one of the easiest plants to grow in the tropical aquarium, and can be adapted to the cold tank too. Recommended for the beginner {see Plate 3).

Lagarosiphon major (wrongly called Elodea crispa). Propagated by cuttings. Long stems thickly clothed with dark green leaves that curl backwards in a decorative way (Fig. 2, j).

Lemna gibba (Thick Duckweed). Floating. This and its relatives, the Lesser {L. minor) and the Ivy-leaved (L. trisulcd) Duckweeds, are very simple plants, consisting of scarcely more than a tiny bright green blade floating on the surface ; these soon multiply to cover the whole area of tank or pond, and are often a nuisance, shutting out the light from other plants. They are often useful in the cold-water tank, however, as Goldfish like them to eat, and can be used as shade in a tank that gets too much sun.

Limnobium spongia (see Hydrocharis and Fig. 3, F).

Limnophila sessiliflora (often called Ambulia). Branched, propagated by cuttings. Bright green, deeply divided leaves arranged in whorls round the stems. Grows easily in a good light. Comes from India {see Plate 3 and Fig. 2, K).

Ludwigia mullertii. Branching, propagated by cuttings. This is really a marsh-plant, and likes to have some of its leaves above the water, but lives for a long while as a submerged plant. The oval leaves are bright green above and pink beneath. This, and the related L. ramosus (more bushy and redder leaves) and L. macrocarpa (leaves all green) are native to America. Growth will be quicker if the lower leaves are taken off before planting. They do not thrive in hard water and need a strong light {see Plate 2).

Marsilea quadrifoliata (Australian four-leaved Clover). This is actually a fern, but has not that appearance. Slender stems rise straight from a runner in the sand, each crowned with a four-lobed leaf, the whole being deep rich green. The stems grow very tall and straggly in time, and it is a good idea to let a piece float at the surface for a while; it then gets many leaves on short stems, and looks pretty when set down in front of rocks (Fig. 2, L).

Myriophyllum spicatum (Water Milfoil). Propagated by cuttings. Very fine, almost hair-like leaves arranged in thick whorls round the stems. Several species are available; this one is green with bronze tints; M. hippuroides is pale green; M. heterophyllum and M. pinnatum are bronze-red. They do equally well in cool or tropical tanks, but they need room to grow, and a strong light, and do not like hard water. The stems tend to grow very long, and to lie along the surface of the water. When this happens it is advisable to cut them about half-way down; this encourages the production of new shoots, and the end that is removed can be re-planted {see Plate 1).
Nitella gracilis (Stonewort). Propagated by cuttings. A very delicate-looking plant, light green with slender stems from which radiate whorls of still more slender stem-cum-leaves. It is a primitive kind of plant the exact relationships of which are uncertain. It grows best at the higher temperatures, and prefers hard water (Fig. 2, M).

Nuphar (Water-lilies). One or two varieties of plant related to the common yellow water-lily can be used in the aquarium, staying small in the restricted space. They make an attractive center-piece, but very rarely flower. They grow from a rhizome, a thick, woody sort of root; when well established parts may be cut from the rhizome to start new plants. They do not require very strong light. Not always obtainable.

Ranunculus aquatilis (Water Crowfoot). A pretty species, best grown from a root. It has slender pale green branching stems, bearing finely divided foliage underwater, and pretty three-lobed ones floating on the surface. Under a strong light it produces white flowers. A plant for the cold-water tank, preferring hard water, and useful in the breeding-tank (Fig. 2, N).

Riccia fluitans (Crystal wort). Floating. This very small, bright green plant is like a slender, many-branched duckweed; it has no roots and never bears flowers. It multiplies rapidly, and under suitable conditions will completely cover the surface of the tank, sometimes to a depth of two or three inches. This completely cuts out light from other plants, and is not generally to be encouraged. Riccia is, however, very useful when breeding some fishes, providing splendid shelter for the babies, and also in tanks exposed to too much sunshine. If weighed down, it can be made to grow as a carpet on the sand, giving a beautiful effect (see Plate 1 and Fig. 3, B).

Sagittaria natans (Arrowhead). Rooted, leaves rising from a crown. The submerged leaves are long and strap-like; under good conditions long stems are sent up bearing oval leaves that float and arrow-shaped leaves that rise above the surface (the latter rarely in aquariums). The submerged leaves of S. natans are brilliant green, and rarely exceed twelve inches in length. Another species, S. subulata, has dark green leaves which grow straighter, and are rather more tubular in form, while for larger tanks S. sinensis is a giant of the group. S. graminea is a more delicate, grass-like form, and other kinds are sometimes available. These are plants of the temperate regions, from the United States to Japan, but can be used in both cold and tropical tanks (see Plate 4).
Salvinia braziliensis. Floating. A tropical plant having a double row of very small hairy, waterproof leaves on a small stem, and dangling roots. It is the prettiest of floating plants for the tropical tank, and less likely to be a pest than the others. S. natans, from India, is similar, and S. major is a larger species having leaves half an inch or more long (Fig. 3 C).

Utricularia minor (Lesser Bladderwort). Floating, or scarcely rooted, but submerged. Forms a dense mass of fine stems, bearing tiny bladders which capture microscopic water-animals. The larger species, U. vulgaris, should be avoided, as it can catch newly-hatched fish. The Lesser species is valuable in the breeding tank, however, as it provides excellent shelter for the fry (Fig. 2, P).

Vallisneria spiralis (Tape-grass). Rooted, with grass-like leaves rising from a crown. The best of all aquarium-plants, combining beauty with usefulness. The vivid green leaves usually have a slight twist in them, and one variety, called torta, has this exaggerated to give a corkscrew effect which is very pleasing. Under a good light the plant sends up a spiral stem which bears a little white female flower at the surface; the male flowers, which are seldom seen, are submerged, near the crown of the plant. Propagation is usually by means of runners, and a dense thicket is soon formed. It is a native of the United States and Southern Europe; it can be adapted to both cold and warm tanks, and is not fussy about the hardness of the water (see Plate 2).

The above list of fifty-odd species of plant does not include all those that might be found from time to time, but is enough to show the choice presented.

Choosing Plants

When confronted with such variety, there is a great temptation to take a piece of everything that appeals to you. If you do this, you will be wasting money needlessly. A dozen different kinds of plant in a tank will compete for food and light, and before long the strongest will have gained the mastery, the others dying off. So exercise self-restraint and limit your choice to three kinds. Two of these plants should be for massing in the background, and one as a center-piece.

Of the three, I would suggest that, for the first aquarium, one should be either Vallisneria or Sagittaria (not both in one tank, as they compete). Another can be one of the bushy plants—Hygrophila is the easiest to grow, but Cabomba> Lim-nophila or Ludwigia are more decorative for the tropical tank; if starting a cold-water tank, consult the above list to make sure the plants you choose are hardy enough.
As a center-piece a Cryptocoryne, Echinodorus or an Aponogeton are recommended for warm water, a Hottonia, Muphar or Ranunculus for the cold water.

Healthy plants are plump, crisp and intense in color; refuse those that are limp and pale. Most aquatic plants are rather brittle when out of water and must be handled carefully. Never pick them up by the middle of the stem; the best way is to lift them by the base, so that they hang down from the fingers. Select young, half-grown plants rather than fully-grown ones, and with as many leaves as possible.

Many of the plants which propagate by cuttings will be seen to have fine, hair-like roots sprouting from the nodes from  which branches spring; choose these, as they will "take" more quickly.

Plants with crowns must have good roots, and you should examine these to see that they are plump and bushy.

Disinfecting Plants

It will be noticed that a few of the plants listed are native to this country, and it might be possible to collect them in a nearby pond or stream. If this is done, precautions must be taken against introducing unwelcome wild life or disease with them. Altogether the introduction of wild plants to the tank is generally more trouble than it is worth, and I do not recommend it; they are usually far more difficult to acclimatize to the confines of a tank than those grown under aquarium conditions. If you must use them, however, float them in a shallow dish of water for a while, and pick out all the snails, water-insects, etc., that make themselves apparent. Then make           a solution of permanganate of potash in water, and let them soak in this overnight; a teaspoonful of the crystals to two gallons of water is strong enough. A better sterilizer, if you care to take the trouble, is made with slaked lime, stirred into water until it is saturated—that is, until it can take up no more, and the lime settles on the bottom after standing a while. Pour off the saturated water, and dilute it with six parts of plain water; then soak the plants in this solution for about a quarter of an hour. Very few animals will remain on the plants after that.

Cultivated plants are always to be preferred, but even with these it is a wise precaution to look them over and sterilize them in the same way. In particular, examine the places where the stems branch off, for little patches of jelly-like substance. These are snails' eggs, and should be removed without damaging the plant. Otherwise your aquarium will soon be more remarkable for its snail population than anything else. Snails are not, as some writers would have us believe, essential to the aquarium, and in any case if you want them it is best to choose them yourself, and not have them thrust on you.
Do not accept plants with a lot of algal (moss-like) growth on the leaves, for this will spread rapidly and choke the plants before they can establish themselves in the tank. Take off any dead or yellow leaves before planting.

Planting

For the ordinary ornamental aquarium it is advisable to place most of the plants towards the back, where they form a natural background to the scene, tending to keep the fishes towards the front, and hiding the uprights of the tank. You will recollect that the sand was laid deeper at the back.

Aquatic plants are very buoyant, and it will be difficult to make them stay in the sand unless they are weighted at the base. Almost all plants sold by dealers have lead strips attached. When propagating your own, use only sheet lead sold by your dealer as it will be free of impurities that harm your fish. The sheet lead can be cut with scissors into strips about a quarter of an inch wide and two inches long, so you will get more than enough out of a piece 12 inches long and 6 inches wide. The strips you cut should be bent lightly round the crowns of the plants, or clipped on to the bases of the stems if they are cuttings, but care must be taken not to crush them. It is a good idea to leave the ends of the strip sticking out for increased anchorage. Later on, when the plant has taken firm root, it will be possible to remove these pieces of lead.

Should lead not be available, flat stones can be used to hold down cuttings; their bases are laid horizontally on the sand, the stone placed lightly over them, and pressed gently down. In the same way, when the crowned plants have been rooted in, small stones can be placed round their bases to prevent them rising. This is not so neat, nor so easy, as the lead clips, however.

For planting, a pair of planting-sticks are most useful. These are simply two slender strips of wood, say 16 inches long, each with a notch cut in one end. This notch must be smoothly rounded; if it is V-shaped, or merely the split end of the stick, it will grip the plant and pull it out instead of planting it. Planting-sticks made of rustless metal or plastic can be purchased.

The advantage of these tools is that they make it easier to set the roots in the sand, and at the same time watch the effect through the front glass. The base of the plant is held down by one notch, while with the other the roots of the plant are pressed into the sand. With crowned plants, the roots should be disentangled and spread out in a radiating manner, and they should be completely buried in the sand; but the crown itself should be above the surface of the sand—if it is not, it may decay, and the leaves die.

Bushy plants which have roots should also have them spread out in the same way, but here, of course, there is no worry about a crown. If you have simply a cutting with no roots, it is advisable to cut off the lowermost half-inch cleanly with a razor blade before pushing it down into the sand; the fresh tissue so exposed is more likely to produce roots than the damaged and probably dead portion cut off.

Certain plants will give a more artistic effect if planted separately, others will create a better impression if planted in bunches. This does not mean that you should crowd them, but plant them close enough together to give the effect of a bunch when full grown.

FIG. 4

Wooden planting-sticks; on right the notched end is shown, about natural size

All operations should be done gently and carefully to avoid bruising the plants.

Layouts

The placing of plants will depend on what layout you favor, but try to conceal the back frame of the aquarium and any tubing or accessories.

 If the back is of clear glass, it may be desirable to put a right across the back, to hide whatever may be seen through it. If opaque, however, it is better to leave a part of it visible, and to group your plants in a nice composition.  Some possible ways of arranging tanks are given in Fig- 5

Notice that in one of them a piece of rock has been placed, like a pinnacle, to obscure one of the back uprights, so that planting has only to account for one of them; if this is done, make sure that your piece of rock is a kind without strata, or it will look wrong; granite or quartz are suggestions.

Each clump of plants should consist of only one species; a mixture not only looks unnatural, but after a time one is sure to be overcome by the other, so you finish up with only one anyway.

The "center-piece" is, of course, always set apart from the massed plants, usually somewhat nearer the front.

Sometimes the composition is aided by the placing of some low-growing plants near the front of the tank, perhaps to take the bareness off an expanse of rock or sand; such plants are the little Cryptocoryne beckettii or Marsilea. Hair-grass (Eleocharis) can also be used in this way, the scene being visible between the fine leaves when it grows tall.

When all plants are in position, put the cover on the tank and switch on the light. A few final touches may be necessary —the pushing down of a root here, the smoothing over of some sand there, and then it can be left to settle while attention is turned to the question of the fishes. A little while after their introduction to the tank the plants should have a number of shining, bead-like bubbles rising from them, due to the air they have picked up being excreted; this is a good sign, showing that they are breathing efficiently.

Backgrounds

You may want to provide a background to your underwater picture in order to hide objects behind it or to enhance the coloring of your fishes. Although there are many shades of different colors that can be used, the preference seems to be for shades of green or black for the greater mass of color.

Simple backgrounds can be made from matchstick, or split bamboo. Wallpaper with appropriate scenery or designs on it, decals of individual fish or whole scenes for your particular-sized tank, are available. Paper backgrounds with actual dried plants and animals such as sea horses can be purchased, or if you are an artistic carpenter you can make shadow boxes that fit on the back, are painted black, and have rocks and sand and whatever else strikes your fancy laid in it. The effect is very striking when viewed through the front, and virtually impossible to detect.

FIG. 5

Front views and plans of four layouts for tropical aquaria: AU) Aponogeton undulatum; c) Cabomba; CB) Cryptocoryne bee-kettii; cc) Cryptocoryne cordata; F) Ceratopteris; H) Hygrophila; HG) Eleocharis; L) ludwigia; M) Myriophyllum; s) Sagittaria; SP) Ech'nodorus intermedius; v) Vallisneria
 
If the shadow box is not practical or does not appeal to you, another idea is to paint a piece of thin wallboard or sheet metal. This should be the same size as the outside measurement of the tank, and out of each corner a one-inch square should be cut. If this is bowed and the ends put against the glass, it will hold in place by its own springiness. As it curves away from the glass, it will increase the appearance of depth in the tank. Some aquarists fix artificial rock-work to the board, which can be seen through the glass.

If you prefer, you can purchase the newest in paint—a paint that crystallizes upon drying and forms into beautiful patterns, no two alike. Large and small crystals can be controlled by the thickness of the paint layer. The thicker the layer, the larger the crystals. Variations of this can be made as the paint comes in a wide range of colors. If you are artistic, by outlining scenery with wax crayons and pouring different colors in different places a beautiful scene can be created.

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